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In the beginning of April Erica and I set out on the 9-day Jomsom Trek in the Annapurna region of Nepal. I took a small notebook along with me and wrote down the day’s events as they unfolded. I also took a bunch of pictures which, in my opinion, do a much better job explaining the trek. I’m sure I lfet out a lot of facts and details – still, this post is quite long. Enjoy.

Pre-Trekking – April 5-6 – Pokhara

Pokhara (elv. 800m) is the last “city” before our trek. It is considered a vacation spot for Nepalis and on a clear day you can see the famous “Fishtail” mountain from the city’s streets. It is from from here that we will fly to Jomsom and start walking. This town crawls with Israeli kids fresh from the army. Their loud boisterous voices can be heard everywhere in town.

Pokhara is supposedly a world-renowned para-gliding spot. It is also here that “Parahawking” was invented – flying along with trained hawks who lead the gliders to the best thermal spots.

Other than the Japanese restaurant in Dharamsala this town has the best non-eastern food we’ve had so far on our trip. I scarf down 2 meals in a row worth of schnitzel and chocolate croissants. Erica inhales sweet lassi’s in seconds.

We book our trek and meet our guide/porter Amar. He is a quiet but sweet Nepali man who weighs less than Erica. He will carry 5 times the weight we will carry. We rent some gear, buy more gear, then buy snacks for the road.

Trekking Day 1 – April 7 – Jomsom to Kagbeni

We take a 9:30am dual-prop flight from Pokhara (elv. 800m) to Jomson (elv. 2720m). The ride is very smooth even though we are flying between two huge mountain ranges. This is our first view of these gigantic majestic mountains.

Jomsom Airport is tiny. After getting off of the plane we take a look at our first mountain from the ground. Its incredible and awe inspiring. I feel like I am inside of a postcard, or like a film character who has just stepped into a fairy tale world inside of a painting. Our jaws are on the floor.

The air is cold and clean as we load the gear on our backs and start walking east. Our first few days of walking will take us through barren high dessert flanked by mountain ranges. We walk through Jomsom town and a few other villages. There are cute kids everywhere. It seems as though half of the population here is under 10 years of age. They play hack-y-sack deftly – all of them.

We arrive in Kagbeni (elv. 2800m) 4 hours later, just in time to beat the brutal wind that whips through this valley in the afternoons. Our hotel is nice, clean, has good food, and most importantly big warm blankets.

Trek Day 2 – April 8 – Kagbeni to Muktinath

We wake up to some of the best tasting oatmeal I’ve ever had. With our bellies full we start our journey up, up, and up. The climb is extremely challenging especially given this high altitude. We take small steps and numerous breaks during our 1100m climb.

Muktinath (elv. 3800m) is the last village before Thorong La Pass (elv. 5416m). It is a large village with at least 12 hotels. Like most villages on the trekking routes it is filled with tourist-friendly shops, expensive bottled water, and women on the side of the path selling hand-made wares yelling “Scarp-e-bayee?” or “Pleese, hab-a-look.” I don’t mean to belittle or make fun of them, but after the 20th time it can get kind-of annoying. These people depend on us for their livelihood and I feel bad that I’m not going to buy anything from them yet I’m paying for overpriced pasta 10 meters away.

It is gorgeous here. We meet many travelers who have just gone through the tough pass. We are not that brave. We only plan to stay here one night then head back the way we came and down around the second half of the Annapurna Circuit Trek. We aptly name our mission “The lazy people trek,” but we soon find out that none of this is for lazy people. Walking 6 hours a day up or down hundreds of meters of elevation is not easy in any way.

The 3800m elevation makes us very crazy. Erica is having a mini-emotional breakdown. I’m pissed off at everything.

Today is April 8th – Erica’s 30th birthday. I spend most of the day coordinating with Amar and our hotel staff to find 30 birthday candles and a cake. After numerous secret meetings the plan is set. Now all I have to do is make sure Erica is willing to come to dinner in the physical and emotional shape that she is in. Its not easy, but she does… and we surprise her with a cake and candles. The French travelers next to us join in on the “Happy Birthday” song. The candles are blown out by 8:45. We are in bed by 9:30.

Trek Day 3 – April 9 – Muktinath back to Jomsom

Today we retrace our steps back to Jomsom. We have to do it fast before the high desert winds come. The path we take is mostly downhill so it makes the walk fast and fun. Also, by now we have acclimated to the high altitude are bodies, minds, and spirits are good – in short, we are not going crazy anymore. A shortcut around Kagbeni through the hills affords the most spectacular views yet. We are having fun and we reach Jomsom by 12:30. We settle into the Mona Lisa Hotel by 1:30. At night we play “Shit-Head” (a card game) with two very nice German girls we met along the way and their Nepali friend who’s name sounds a lot like Depeche but is probably spelled differently.

Trek Day 4 – April 10 –Jomsom to Larjung

Larjung is at the same elevation as Jomson so our walk is an easy 5 hours. Again, on the way we see views that would rival any of those that we’ve seen before. Can it get any more beautiful than this? We’ve slowly transitioned from desert into evergreen forest.

We run into many adorable children, dubbed “Monkies” dude to their size and rambunctious behavior – forcing us to reassess our definition of “cute.” We were having a “Cutest Monkey” competition during the trek, but we now realize that we have to break it up into numerous categories – Cutest Monkey under 1, Cutest Monkey with a Hat, Cutest Monkey on a Monkey’s back, Cutest Pigtailed Monkey, and so on.

In the evening, after we have settled in our hotel, Amar and I walk up a large hill and pick a few handfuls of naturally growing “Jungle Garlic.” This is kind of a cross between an onion and garlic. It smells delicious and we convince the cook to use our catch in tonight’s dish. It turns out to be one of the best meals of the trip.

While we sit in the kitchen I hear a loud screech coming from the back room. It stops for a few seconds then happens again. It becomes obvious that a chicken was just killed for someone’s dinner. 10 minutes later I watch in mild horror as the cook holds the chicken’s de-feathered & headless body over the fire to burn off any excess stuff. I am told that the head of this bird will also be cooked and served to the “head” of the household. This is when I notice said half-charred head on the kitchen table. We are in bed by 9:30.

Trek Days 5 & 6 – April 11 & 12 – Larjung to (can’t recall the name) to Tatopani

Down down down. Up up up. My knees are starting to hurt. Every step feels like someone is banging the sharp side of a hammer head below my kneecap.

Like yesterday, the climate and environment have shifted. We are now entering a warmer jungle. Tatopani has natural hot springs by the river. We have something to look forward to. We arrive with plenty of time to do laundry & go jump into the hot water.

The host spring bath is small. It is occupied by a few Israeli and German women wearing only bikinis. Don’t they know this is rude here? They are practically naked by Nepali terms – so much so that our friend Amar feels uncomfortable to go in. After a bit of persuasion we are all inside and having fun. Amar starts flexing his muscles.

Trek Day 7 – April 13 – Tatopani to Sikha

More & more beauty. All of this incredible scenery and ridiculously cute kids are getting old, man. This part of the trek is made up entirely of rock steps going up. We take many breaks. I drink many bottles of water which seem to go directly out of my pores and into my drenched clothes.

Today I learned some new words in Nepali. How to call someone “brother” or “sister” in Nepali:

If HE is YOUNGER than you then say : Bhai
If HE is OLDER than you then say : Dhai
If SHE is YOUNGER than you then say : Bhaini
If HE is OLDER than you then say : Didi

We arrive before lunch. I eat a ton of Dal Bhat to make up for all the energy I used up today. After eating we take a stroll around the small village and I begin to use my new Nepali words. “Hello brother!” “Hello Sister!”

I catch 5 girls having fun singing and dancing old folk songs. Afterwards Amar and I play volleyball with the locals who happen to have a ball AND a professional net.

That night Erica and I are insane with exhaustion. We crack each other up to the point of suffocation. Yesterday a boy came up to us and said “Excuse me! He is my mama. [pointing to his uncle] He buy me Dairy Milk!” Erica repeats this over and over as I’m having a laugh seizure.

Trek Day 8 – April 14 –Sikha to Ghorepani

Again, a very tough day. Instead of the altitude to beat us down we have heat and humidity. It is another uphill day. The trees getting taller and thicker as we climb out of the jungle into what looks like an enchanted forest above 2000m. We finally arrive at our 2750m destination.

The forest is beautiful and rich – especially as the stone steps weave through it magically.

In one of our rest stops we find a Fred Flinstone-esque bar weight. Amar and I take turns lifting it over our heads as Erica lays down to rest legs. We keep each other going with jokes and songs and before we know it we are THERE.

Ghorepani sounds a lot like Tatopani. This is because “Pani” means “Water.” “tato” means hot – Hot Water. “Ghore” comes from the word horse – Horse Water, or Horse drinking Water. I think.

Evening time in Ghorepani is festive. Like us, most people are on the last few days of their trek. The lodge is full to the brim with hikers from many countries. Everyone is here to eat, socialize, and plan tomorrow morning’s sunrise climb to Poon Hill. We discuss our plans over our usual game of Gin Rummy. We will need to wake up at 4:30 to see the sunrise. I order an Everest Beer to put me to sleep early.

Trek Day 8 – April 15 – Poon Hill then back to Pokhara

Waking up at 4:30 is easy. Walking up to Poon Hill at 4:45 was a challenge. Our knees hurt and our lungs grasp for cold air. Finally we make it to the top of the hill where about fifty other hikers have gathered to see the most spectacular view of our trek. Before us in the clear morning sky we see almost 20 peaks.

The view is unreal as the sun rises and begins to kiss the tops of the peaks. Pictures will not do this justice. Cameras are snapping all around us. Same photos are being taken by all.

After breakfast we are eager to return to Pokhara – the world of flat ground and internet. Amar promises that out 7 hour walk will only be “down down down.” He is not kidding. By the second our legs are jello. How I miss the climbs of days before. The entire day consists of walking down large, uneven, stone steps. My calves cry out.

The scenery is gorgeous – reminiscent of pictures I’ve seen of farms in China. Multi-layered grass terraces surround us.

Finally, as we approach 4pm we can sense that the city is near. Dirt paths look… dirty. The people feel.. Jaded. Their faces are different. Less affected. Less caring.

Sooner than expected we are on top of the roof of the bus back to Pokhara. Our senses are overwhelmed even by this small town’s bustling streets. Are we really back here? Did that actually happen? We are in shock and exhaustion.

Erica disappears to find us a hotel. I wait, listening to Israelis talking and arguing. Yes, we are back.